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What to look for when buying
an 1800 - Eriks (29/11/2000)
Here are a few pointers on what
to look for when buying an 1800.
These are based on my discussions
with Austin 1800 owners in the Austin Car Club of NSW.
One of the first things to look
for in any old car is rust. Australian built 1800's were Roto-dipped when
they were built, this has meant that many are still rust free (unlike
Austin Healy Sprites and MG Midgets which missed out on the Rotodip process,
and rust is a major problem). I was told the thing to watch out for in
the 1800 was any sign of accident damage, especially if any welding may
have been done, damaging the Rotodip protection so rust could become a
problem.
I was told to be wary of automatics,
as a rebuild of a faulty transmission would cost around $3000, ouch!
Maybe that's why there were a number of unregistered automatics for sale
in the Trading Post for around $500?
When asking about the leaking
suspension, I was told replacement hydrolastic units are still readily
available in wrecking yards, and were identical to the later Tasman/Kimberley
models so should a unit need replacing try and get one of the later ones
(the theory being the unit would be a few years newer).
** Pumping
up the suspension could be easily done at home as well by slightly modifying
a grease gun, and pumping up with a mixture of Metho and 5% antifreeze.
Driving the car, to work any trapped air to the top of the hydraulic system
which just so happens to be the filler valve, then letting the air out.
I was told the engine is the
same as an MGB, so if I was having trouble finding new parts to go to
an MG parts dealer (I already knew the location of several of those).
While I didn't get a clear picture
of what the difference was between a Mk1 and Mk2, I was told that there
were a few items on the Mk1 that have not been available for many years,
but the equivalent parts would bolt straight in from a Mk2. The main items
in this category being the Girling brakes, and the rubber CV joints on
the driveshaft.
With regards the manual transmission,
I was told to watch out for a plastic housing on the back of the transmission
where the gear lever cables enter the gearbox. The plastic housing fatigues
and cracks with age causing oil to leak. Apparently theres a guy in Melbourne
who can repair these by vulcanising a skin over the top of the old housing
making it superior to the original. (I don't have his details).
Also inspect any rubber components
such as brake lines, dust boots on the CV joints and suspension as these
perish with age.
I'm sure this doesn't cover everything
to keep an eye out for, so maybe if anyone out there has any other thoughts
or ideas, please post them here and we'll all benefit.
Cheers, Eriks
------------------------------- From Peter A Jones - Landcrab
Owners Club Australia Queensland - 01/12/2000
Australian YDO Numbers
Around 1962 (after ADO42) BMC
Australia used YDO numbered for all new Australian designs, these are
listed below:-
YDO 001 Morris
Major Elite (production type),
YDO 002 Morris
Major Elite with longer turret,
YDO 003 Austin
Freeway MkII and Wolseley 24/80 MkII,
YDO 004 Standard
Mini with wind up windows,
YDO 005 Deluxe
Mini with wind up windows,
YDO 006 Mini
Cooper S with wind up windows,
YDO 007 Mini
Moke with 10" wheels,
YDO 008 Mini
Moke with 13" wheels,
YDO 009 Morris
Nomad sedan,
YDO 010 Austin
1800 ute,
YDO 011
YDO 012
YDO 013 Austin
Tasman/Kimberley sedan,
YDO 014 Austin
Tasman/Kimberley ute,
YDO 015 Morris
Nomad 5 door hatch,
YDO 016
YDO 017
YDO 018 Mini
Moke with 13" wheels update,
YDO 019 Austin
Tasman/Kimberley MkII,
YDO 020
YDO 021 Australian
Leyland Mini Clubman Standard,
YDO 022 Australian
Leyland Mini Clubman Super,
YDO 023 Australian
Mini Clubman GT,
YDO 024 Australian
Morris Marina,
YDO 025 Australian
Leyland Marina 4 and 6 cylinder (facelift).
Peter A. Jones August 2000.
------------------------------- From: Kurt Christensen (Denmark)
09/09/2000
Dear John.
Hope you got my first e-mail.
I wonder if you know that we
had both the Austin and the Morris models here in Denmark.
From the beginning in 1966 the
models had their own name, which they became here in DK when they arrived.
The Austin was called WINDSOR,
and the Morris called MONACO. Windsor was only used on Austins for about
one year, so afterwards they were just Austin 1800.
The Morris was called Monaco
until 1972 when the Morris importer took over the Austin importer, and
the 1800/2200 models were all called Austin.
(The MORRIS 1100-1300 were called
Morris MARINA from 1964-1972, when the "new" Marina came they were just
called Austin 1100/1300, like the sister model Austin always had been
named. Also MINI's had their names. Austin Partner and Morris Mascot.
Partner was only used from 1959 to 1964 but Mascot was used from 1961
until import of MINI ended in 1981. When people in Denmark talks about
the MINI they mostly call the car for MASCOT.)
I send you some pictures of the
cover of some 1800 brochures.
Monaco Mk1 and Monaco Mk2 with
an almost similar cover except for the minor changes on the grille.
Austin Windsor brochure from
1966.
Did you know that the rear lamps
on the Austin and Morris Mk1's were different in shape?
I show you two pictures so you
can compare. Hope you like the pictures.
Regards
Kurt
Thanks for that interesting information Kurt.
-------------------------------
From Ken Green:
23/02/2001
........... On the subject of
(engine) blocks, the MGB and MK2 1800 use the same basic block but they
are machined differently for example the Mk2 1800 has a mechanical fuel
pump fitted to the block the MGB an electrical one so there is no hole
in the block for the pump. There are other differences.
However the internal bits
are interchangable (except the camshaft -&- clutch ) I have just got
mains big end and piston rings for my 1800 from a MG specialist so unless
the block is totally scrap ie rod through the side an 18H 1800 engine
can be treated as a worn 18V series MGB unit and bored out for oversize
pistons up to .60 thou. of an inch, the crank re-ground etc and made as
good as new.You can also get parts for the Mk1 1800 from an earlier "B"
as well. You do however need a special tool to remove / replace the pistons
on to the con rods of a 18H engine an MG specialist or an old BMC dealer
(they sure are now!!) should have one as they are
the same for all late "B" series engines. There is a picture in the workshop
manual.
You can use the auto crank
in the manual if you change the bush for the clutch shaft in the end of
the crank for one off a manual - see hints and tips on this site.
There is an MG specialist 'Sussex
Classic Car Parts' in the UK who will do mail order .... ask for a catalogue
on-line. (if you can find their website)
MGB Pistons for the 18H are 12H5161
they are 8.5 to 1 c/r but this is probably an advantage these days with
the crap unleaded fuel. (Tell
me about it)
Hope this helps
Ken
Thanks Ken, this is very useful
information on this subject.
-------------------------------
How to make a Hydrolastic Pump. - By Marcel Chichak (Canada)
26/01/2001
I made one from a portapower
pump. All I did was change the end of the hydraulic hose. Initially I
tried a heavy duty air chuck but they blow off at about 150 PSI so it
makes it really difficult to hold it on with one hand while working the
pump with the other. I run the Minis at about 280 PSI and the Landcrab
something lower than that at 250 PSI. Piece of cake for the portapower.
Eventually I ended up changing
the schrader valves for Parker quick disconnect hydraulic couplers. Did
that on all the Minis and the Landcrab.
I suppose if you went to the
guys that handle industrial tires you might find a source for the clip-on
schrader coupler that the proper BMC pump has.
Most
of the Mini guys use converted grease guns, but I've never tried that.
MFC - Jan. 2001
Many thanks Marcel, I'm sure
there are many 'relieved' Landcrab owners who will try their hand at making
a Hydrolastic Pump now.
-------------------------------
Email from Paul Copeland
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000
10:24:42 +1100
Hi there,
I have a book with some information
on the 1800, that you don't have in your book list. The title is
"Complete Catalogue of Austin Cars since 1945". Author is Anders
Ditlev Clausager, published by Bay View Books Ltd, ISBN 1 870979 26 5
It is quite a good book for any
Austin/BMC fan and gives far better wrap of the 1800 than Graham Robson
does in The Cars of BMC. Also compliments on the great site it is
good to see the 1800 has a presence on the net.
Kind regards
Paul Copeland
Thanks for the information and
kind thoughts Paul.
-------------------------------
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From: Peter Richardson
Subject: Austin1800 & Wolseley 18/85
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001
G'day there,
I bought my 1967 Austin 1800
(S) in 1969 from Lanes Motors in Camberwell, Melbourne. It was a conversion
by Larke Hoskins in Sydney. I used this car for everyday transport to
work until retired in 1982, when I (foolishly) sold it. Here is a picture
of it, together with my two Wolseley 6/90s.
I eventually acquired more Wolseleys,
the final one being the 18/85 shown in the attached picture. Does this
qualify for your Austin website? I bought the car from WA, where it had
been carelessly maintained by an elderly lady, but had done only 49,000
miles. I have restored it to near its original condition. It is automatic
and has power steering. It has a new windscreen, new light fittings, new
headlining, new tyres and new engine mounts. I recently added a secondhand
rear bumper from an Austin 1800.
I am enjoying your website,
with its information and advice about these cars. I agree they were very
under-rated.
Best wishes and regards,
Peter Richardson (Founder, Wolseley Car Club)
Peter Richardson's Wolseley 18/85
A sight to behold Peter. What
a beauty........ agree????
-------------------------------
From: Peter Richardson
Subject: Austin 1800
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001
G'day John,
Thought you might like to see
this. Austin 1800 growing on tree in WA!
Regards,
Peter.
Ha ha ha ha ha..... and who said
they didn't grow on trees? (ROFLMAO)
Great pic, thanks Peter.
-------------------------------
From: "steve1800"
Subject: steve,,,from england
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001
14:41:11 -0000
hi there
I thought you would like to see my finished austin 1800 I rebuilt it from the wheels up its a 1970 austin 1800 mk 2 I've had it for about 8 years and I re built it last year hope you like it ,,,,,,I have more pics of it being built if you want to see them I can send them another time ,,,,,steve {england}
A great looking MkII Steve. Yes please........, send more pics of the rebuild. -------------------------------
Differences between UK and Oz
1800's
From Ken Green Thursday
Sept. 20, 2001
Here are a few things that I
have noted:
1. Lower Compression ratio on
the Oz engine.
2. PBR brakes on Mk II Oz cars,
UK had Girlings.
3. Email (brand) alternator on
Oz MkII, UK had Dynamo up to Mk III.
4. Different Needles in the Mk
II carburettor.
5. UK 1800 S available with high
compression, twin carb engine had bigger brakes and a 120 mph speedo.
6. UK cars had higher diff ratios
3.8 against 4.1, this gave better cruising.
7. One thing that was the same
was all Mk II cars had the same steering rack ratio in both Oz and UK.
8. Oz cars had a smaller fan
pulley to increase the speed of the fan to give better cooling, UK cars
had an 82C thermostat.
9. UK Mk II cars had the indicator
repeater in the speedo not on the stalk.
10. Both Austin and Morris versions
were sold in the UK.
11. The UK Mk II had a silencer
with 2 boxes to reduce the exhaust note.
12. The UK cars ran a lower ride
height 14 7/8 inches against 15 1/2 for the same Hydrolastic pressure.
13. UK cars were NOT fitted with
a sumpguard.
14. UK Mk II cars all had the
old style downward pointing oil canister with the replacable inner filter.
15. The front suspension bottom
bushes are different on Mk II Oz cars UK stopped the same as Mk 1.
16. UK cars had the single engine
mount on the drivers side Oz had 2 mountings.
17. The coil on the UK Mk II
cars is mounted on top of the R/H engine mounting bracket, on Oz cars
it's mounted in a bracket that's fixed to the engine block.
Thanks Ken (our 1800 Guru). You're a fountain of information.
-------------------------------
From: Eriks eriks@froggy.com.au
Subject: Sump
Guard
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001
Thought people might find it
interesting to hear why Aussie cars were fitted with a sump guard.
This is the story I was told
only a couple of months ago by Roger Foy who was the Supervisor of the
Australian BMC/Leyland Experimental Department at the time they were trialling
the Austin 1800 before the start of local production.
It was common in those days to
take cars to the outback in NSW and give them a bit of a hiding on rough
dirt roads. This was the best way to find out what might need to be modified
/ strengthened for Australian conditions.
On one such trip the test car
hit a deep pot hole, causing the engine sump to catch the ground. The
engine was torn from it's mountings, pushed backward in the engine bay
severing the hydrolastic plumbing causing instant suspension failure.
Then almost immediately after
the Aussie 1800 was launched, a car dealer in Granville (NSW), entered
a driveway too quickly, resulting with the same devastating damage.
As a result, BMC Australia fitted
all 1800's with sump guards, there was also a BMC service bulleting issued
for this matter and is still just as relevant today.
Roger's words of advice are,
do not drive your 1800's without the sump guard or you risk sustaining
major damage to your car.
Cheers,
Eriks Skinkis
A likely story Eriks - (knowing
how rough the outback was in the '60's).
------------------------------- From: keith kjmaca@hotmail.com.au
Subject: wheel
bearings
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001
Just today I was after front
wheel bearings for my car. Only to be told that in Australia it was deemed
a waste of time for Timken to make available these bearings. So armed
with the old bearing I marched down to the local bearing shop. Surprise
surprise, bearings are common with a lot of other applications and NSK
believe it viable to have them available.
The NSK number to look for is
LM48548R/LM48510R 0-10 at $15 each.
The seals are a problem yet to
be solved. Hopefully tomorrow that will be cured.
Thanks for the info Keith, I'm
sure we will keep this part number in our Manual.
-------------------------------
From: Ken Green kengreen@landcrab2.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Hot
Run Stickers
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001
The Austin sticker for the rocker
box cover are available from the UK try minispares@compuserve.com - part
no. ST 136
I think the Hot Run Sticker is
available from the Landcrab Owners Club of Australia (LOCA),
I also think that any one who owns a Landcrab in Australia should be a
member - I am, and I live in the UK!
There is also a UK based club
(LOCI)
Contact loci@go.com for the UK
club.
In Australia (LOCA), contact:
Daryl Stevens 22 Davison Street. Mitcham. Victoria 3132
Cheers
Ken Green
Good points Ken.
------------------------------- From: Aristidis arkar@hol.gr
Subject: Wheel
Bearings
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001
Hello,
I am restoring my 1966 Austin1800
Mk I from bare shell, here in Greece where I am living. A long term project.
Six months ago it was the turn
of the front wheel hubs. Here too the Timken agent did not carry the bearings,
but I found them in a SKF specialising shop. The shop keeper said "OK
I have them as SKF bearings", went to his shelves and came back, himself
very surprised, with Timken (England) bearings!! Priced at 6400.-GDR each,
about 17.30 US$.
According to the shop manual,
new bearings should be installed in matched pairs with a distance tube.
Ten years ago I had found here
such a match, it was Unipart Hub Bearing Kit GHK 1012. It included 2 bearings,
one distance tube and also the two seals plus some plastic parts for some
other make. The Timken web site, lists,for the Morris1800 1965-1970, the
hub bearings just as "set 5".
For my restoration I used the
old distance tubes; first I over-torqued the nut, loosened it and retorqued
it again to the spec's 150 lbft.
There was no end play and there
was free rotation. Hope its OK, will know for sure when the car hits the
road again some day.
The hub seals I got from Tony
Wood (UK), the LOCI spares secretary.
Another very useful piece of
information Aristidis.
------------------------------- From: Lieven Merckx <merckxl@compaqnet.be>
Subject : Hydrolastic Suspension
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001
Hello John and all other Landcrab
fans,
Just for those who are interested,
a hydrolastic suspension filling pump can still be bought new as well
as the fluid. Look at www.brakefluidtester.com/main10.htm
for the pump and at www.commaoil.co.uk/bp.htm for the fluid.
I have no experience with those
products and by the way, making your own stuff is more fun !!!
Lieven
Another great idea Lieven. Thanks
for your information!!!!
-------------------------------
From: Norman Wisdom ernstblofeld01@netscapeonline.co.uk
Subject: Don't
Laugh At Me For I'm a Fool
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001
Don't laugh at me - I'm no engineer
- so apologies if the following sounds a bit off the wall. (I've asked
Mr Grimsdale for advice but, as ever, he's about as useful as a chocolate
fireguard.)
The Achilles (well, Issigonis
was Greek, wasn't he?) heel of BMC's front wheel drive cars was the gears-in-sump-with-power-sapping-idler-gear
arrangement, yes?
Engine and gearbox sharing the
same oil was a necessary evil for the Mini, but why was this arrangement
adopted for the 1100, 1800, Maxi etc. when Issigonis' 1952 experimental
front wheel drive Minor (the famous TFC 717) used an end-on gearbox with
its own oil supply?
Dammit, this drive arrangement
was copied by FIAT for the 128. So, in this respect TFC 717 is the true
forebear of today's FWD cars, not the Mini. Either way, you have to admire
Issigonis' genius.
Early Mini prototypes (and Issigonis'
putative Mini replacement, the 9X) did away with the idler gear (which
caused a 4% drop in transmission efficiency.) That 4% drop must have bugged
Issigonis, the High Priest of Automotive Efficiency, to his dying day.
I find it hard to believe that carb-icing was the reason for the prototype
Mini engine's 180 degree volte face.
In 1970, Datsun launched the
120Y Cherry. It goes without saying that this was a horrible device. Yet
it used an Oriental iteration of the BMC A series mounted transversely
and driving the front wheels. The gearbox was bunk-bedded with the engine,
but unlike the Mini etc. engine and gearbox did not share the same oil.
Four years earlier, Lamborgini
launched a V12 mid-engined Mini, the Miura (Marcello Gandini has admitted
that the Miura was 'the son of the BMC Mini.')
The Miura's Bizzarini-designed
V12 was mounted transversely, and shared its oil with its in-sump transmission.
However, although the transmission of all Miuras sat beneath the engine,
the transmission of later Miuras did not share the same oil as the engine.
And yet, it seems BMC was alive
to idea of separating the lubrication requirements of engine and transmission.
Auto transmission 1800s did not share the same oil as the engine. And
what's a Morse Hy-vo chain?
My point (as a Mini owner) is
this: would it be possible to separate the engine and transmission so
that they each had their own supply of oil? And is this Hy-Vo chain more
efficient than that damn' whiney old idler gear? I want a Mini with a
reliable, efficient, non-whiney transmission...
Well Norman - maybe a rubber
belt (like some Japanese cars have, might be the answer) - but most of
them are no longer on the road - or are past their use by date. (ha ha
ha). Put up with the noise I say and invest in a good sound system.
------------------------------- From: Eriks eriks@froggy.com.au
Subject: Unleaded Petrol.
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001
We had a guest speaker from one
of the major oil refineries at one of our Sprite Car Club of Australia
meetings last year. As you can imagine the same concerns apply to all
of our British cars no matter how big or small they are.
The guy who came to our club
was one of the laboratory technicians and not a marketing person and was
extremely knowledgeable.
These are the main points that
I remember, it was a year ago, and my memory may have been traumatised
from working on the 1800 too many times so I will not guarantee total
accuracy...
The bottom line was that all
the major oil companies in Australia have spend a considerable investment
in research to make sure that Lead Replacement Petrol (LRP) was safe and
performed as close as possible to the old Super. They don't want to be
sued for damaging your engine.
The fact is without lead, LRP
doesn't have the same valve recession protection of Super but it comes
awfully close. I don't remember exactly the difference, but it was around
the 95% range, which realistically for most of us means we probably would
never notice any difference. What many people seem to forget is you were
still getting valve seat recession with Super.
The other option is to fill up
with ULP and squirt an additive in the fuel, this additive should be available
at the petrol station (I think one brand is called Valemaster), but some
of our Sprite club members have found that some self serve service station
attendants (who are there only to operate the cash register) don't know
anything about it.
The bottom line is don't panic,
unless you already have your engine apart, don't rush out and change things.
Just keep using LRP, when you finally need to get any work done to your
cylinder head, get hardened valve seats inserted so you can then switch
to ULP.
Apparently there's not much difference
in the make up of Unleaded Petrol (ULP) and LRP, apart from the additional
anti-valve recession additive.
They are both just as bad for
you. The chemical make up of petrol has been changing over the years,
a tank of super from 2 years ago is different to super from 20 years ago.
Modern petrol is charged with a gas which slowly evaporates, thats why
you find you can't store petrol in the shed for extended periods anymore
as it goes off.
Also, sunlight kills modern petrol
as well, so store it in a can and not a glass bottle. Notice those glass
flow gauges have disappeared from modern fuel pumps?
The other interesting thing he
hold us was that he uses Shell Optimax in his car (not the company he
works for). It's a denser petrol which means not only does it produce
more power, but in doing so, you don't need to use as much petrol - so
you get better economy which out weighs the slightly higher cost.
I've been meaning to try this
myself, but out of habit I keep forgetting.
There was probably stacks more
he told us, but I can't remember any more at the moment. I think these
were most of the major points anyway.
Cheers,
Eriks.
Grrrrrrr. Nothing like the good
ole days eh?
-------------------------------
From: Ken Green kengreen@landcrab2.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Unleaded Petrol.
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001
We have had unleaded petrol in
the UK for a while now and tests by FBHVC (ww.fbhvc.co.uk ) have shown
that you an use unleaded with an additive or LRP petrol in an old car.
If you use Unleaded then you
risk valve seat recession, again tests have found that this occours more
on high revving engines (over 4000rpm).
Unleaded contains more nasty
substances than leaded but the catalytic converter (cat) is not the complete
answer as a cat in a cold country puts out more pollution than a car without
a cat - you want to try sitting behind a cat equipped car in cold weather
the smell is awful. So not less polution just a different sort.
You can have a 1800 fitted with
hardened inserts but this has its drawbacks - if not done properly they
will drop out. Use sintered inserts.
The later MGB's sent to North
America had induction hardened valve seats (and smaller valves) to cope
with unleaded.
Unleaded is more prone to Vapour
lock on hot days and has a shorter shelf life - it goes off after about
2 months in the tank (aromatic content boils away) causes engines to run
hotter and has a lower octane number causing pre-ignition knock.
We can still get Leaded fuel
here in the UK but it costs about 3 Dollars a LITRE.
Happy Motoring - Just remember
we let the government(s) do this to us.
Ken Green.
You're not wrong there Ken!!!!
Ken Green's latest purchase -
THE ORIGINAL 1968
London-Sydney Marathon car SMO 227G driven by Evan Green, Jack 'Gelignite'
Murray and George Shepheard. ------------------------------- |
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From: Patrick Farrell
Subject: hydrolastic fluid recipe
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002
I have used a 50/50 mix of methylated
spirits and radiator coolant (the complete fill type, must be to Australian
standard AS2108) for the last 20 years it has proved completely satisfactory
in all conditions including rallying.
That's an effective and easy
to make hydrolastic fluid recipe. - Thanks Patrick
------------------------------- From: Chris Linford Chris@Linford.nl
Subject: Unleaded Petrol
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002
I've been on unleaded for the
past 10 years with my Wolseley. The head was rebuilt with new TRW-valves,
guides and seat inserts. As it is and S the valves are really close so
the insert of the exhaust were fitted first and then the other ports were
cut so they would fit into the head. Never had a problem running on any
fuel (not even 91 octane German fuel) and never noticed any recession.
Over here (Netherlands) using LPG is rather common, so the art of running
without lead is well practiced.
The head built for my car was
in fact a normal LPG conversion. I don't run the car on lpg by the way.
My Wolseley usually runs at about 4200 rpm on the motorway.
My MGB on LRP without conversion
has burnt a valve recently. I tried additive too. That seemed to dissolve
into some sort of goo after a while and then the car wouldn't start.
Conversion is no big deal and
we could use rebuilt MGB heads of course, but I don't trust the USA-spec
heads. They're not better than a converted head. Inserts are really tougher.
They only fall out when the machine
shop has used the wrong tolerances or materials.
Chris Linford
Thanks for that story Chris. It serves as a warning to all of us. -------------------------------
From: Patrick Farrell
Subject: brakes-servo unit
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002
PBR VH40 boosters are available
from Landcrab Club Aust at a cost of $A180 changeover.
PBR tandem master cylinder, steel
sleeved with new seal kit is $A190 changeover.
Seal kit for PBR m/cylinder is
$A30.
All these items are plus freight.
Patrick is the Parts Co-ordinator
for Landcrab Owners Club Australasia (LOCA)
------------------------------- From: William fournier@wanadoo.nl
Subject: hot
rod Landcrabbing
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002
Yes Mr Gillson,
You can get intriquing thoughts
looking down into the engine bay of your Landcrab. Mr Roger Partker
is a marvel indeed as it comes to knowledge about English cars.
Since oktober I own a 2200 sixer,
whilst driving a MG Montego Turbo 2l. at the moment. I have read a lot
in the www.MGcars.org.uk bulletin board. There is a lot of information
about the Metro turbo and this leads to thinking about two tubo's on
the manoifolds of the 2200 Landcrab. Taking two threequarters of the
manifolds. In the whilst thoughts are going about a 2 l. 8v engine with
turbo and intercooler in the engine bay of my Landcrab. After all the
1800 engine is the same block with a little smaller bore.I had to take
the engine out because of a stuck clutch. When I am looking into all
that space you have, I could imagine what good it would be to have a
five spead gearbox down there. It should be possible to use the inner
universal joints of the Landcrab and the halfaxels of the donor car
with the outer universal joints of the donor or the other way around.
Is there any body that didn't
stop by thinking and did it try out?
William
It sure hadn't occurred to me
William, but I'm not as big a petrol-head as you (ha ha ha)
------------------------------- From: Patrick Farrell
Subject: Diesel in unleaded
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002
You should be aware that diesel
is not a substitute for lead in petrol, it's use will only give you
problems.
The only substitute for lead
is one of the approved additives such as Flashlube or similar. Also
do not use any of the 'black magic' solutions that you fit in the fuel
lines they don't work either.
Let's keep away from voodoo products
eh?
------------------------------- From: Ken Green kengreen@landcrab2.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Hardy
Spicer Uni's
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002
I think the white set were made
by Quinton Hazell in the UK and were sold as a replacement for the original
Dunlop rubber X joint the part Nos I think was Q 5000 They are still
available from LOCI.
I cannot remember seeing a set
in black but Hardy Spicer is a very well known company that is based
in Birmingham UK (where I live) and they made virtually all the parts
- CV Joints Auto drive shaft joints etc for the 1800 and supplied them
to BMC.
Hope this helps
Ken
It sure will Ken, especially
if our uni's are gnarled and knotted.
------------------------------- From: Eriks eriks@froggy.com.au
Subject:Hardy
Spicer Uni's
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002
Hi Ken,
I had a chance at a club meeting
on Friday night to talk with Roger Foy who was the Supervisor of BMC
Australia's Experimental Department. Roger was familiar with the black
units as an aftermarket accessory in the 60's, but wasn't aware of the
white ones. I think it's safe to assume then that the black ones are
older.
Roger also had some advice to
offer that may be of interest to others. As it's difficult to know how
old some of these things really are, he said to clean them out and repack
them with fresh grease. He said that grease can go off if it's sitting
around doing nothing, it can either harden, or start to break down and
separate into its original components,
in use it's not an issue as the motion of the part it's protecting tends
to keep the grease components mixed up. I have to admit I've seen this
myself when opening a tin of grease and seeing a pool of oil on the
surface.
Cheers,
Eriks.
Thanks for those greasy tips
Eriks.
-------------------------------
A FUNNY THING -
by Sahra Stolz Wed. Feb. 6 2002
I just got the Austin back from
the mechanic - the hydraulic suspension failure defeated me and I just
took it there and had it fixed. I assumed something on the road had
flicked up and caused damage to the pipe which allows the pressurised
suspension fluid to pass from the front to the back and vice-versa....
however what actually happened was much funnier.
It seems that while the car was
idle at the panel beaters for 3 months recently the drivers side front
tyre arch had become home to one or more rats. The rat/s made a lovely
nest of straw, leaves and newspaper and snacked on the hydraulic suspension
cables. When the cable finally did blow the rat/s were blasted to smithereens.
Of course the less funny (and
more probable) version is that the rat/s munched almost all the way
through, substantially weakening the cable and then vamoosed when I
started driving the car again, but as I say that's much less violent
and therefore much less funny.
Sahra
Great story Sahra, looks like
we have a 'script writer' for our site.
------------------------------- From: Larry Lebel Leanne_Lebel@shaw.ca
Subject: Canadian Newbie
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002
I am a newbie to the Landcrab
world having just bought a '67 MkI Austin 1800. This car sat unused
and partially dismantled in the original owners carport since 1979.
It has issues, like no hydraulics which I am slowly sorting out.
Every time I get up close and
personal with it, I am impressed by the quality of the engineering and
the build. Superior to my other car which is a '67 Austin Cooper S.
The motor runs fine but I do not know the condition of the transmission.
I can't wait to take my first drive and experience the legendary Landcrab
ride.
Welcome aboard Larry and Leanne
- from the land of the Muscle Cars! You surely will enjoy good old fashioned
quality when you take your first Landcrab ride. - Won't they?
-------------------------------
From: Eriks <eriks@froggy.com.au>
Subject: 1800
rubbers
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002
Peter Jackson sold his auto rubber
business to someone else, the new company is called Spectrum Auto Rubber,
Ph: 02 96235333. (in
Sydney)
Cheers,
Eriks.
Thanks Eriks, their windscreen rubber seal prices are VERY competitive.
Crossroads Alice - The story of the Austin 1800 and the Morris Mini 850 that travelled in a figure of eight across Australia - through the inland deserts - an amazing feat.
-------------------------------
|
|
|
re: Wolseley Six -
Paul - 11:49 pm wednesday april 10, 2002
Dear Landcrabbers
I am on the verge of buying a
Wolseley Six and would appreciate any advice on what to look out for when
I go to see the car on the 13th of April 2002 (this Sunday). The car looks
great, but it will be my first Wolseley so any advice would be appreciated.
Regards
Paul.
-------------------------------
Hi Paul
I have 3 Sixes including an auto.
Body checks are the same as for the 1800 model. The most important areas
being the sills and the front footwells lift the front carpets and check
the corners of the floorpans where they meet the inner sills and across
the front of the floorpan where it meets the bulkhead/toeboard. If the
carpet and sound proofing are wet this could be simply the screen rubber
requiring replacement but it is worth checking the inner wing area immediately
behind the front wheels as this often rots through.
At the rear of the car they can
rust around the area of the rear suspension mounting. Check the area around
the aluminium casting which the rear displacer housing bolts to at its
rear most point, if you go to the rear of the sills about the last 12"
then reach up between the displacer carrier and the inner sill which is
exposed at this point the condition of this area is a good indicator of
the rest of the structure around the rear suspension mountings.
Structurally these are the most
important areas to check on all models but on the sixes you should also
check the front cross-member at each corner where it meets the chassis
legs, and the front inner wings where they meet the top of the front chassis
legs, as there is a lip on the top edge of the chassis legs which holds
mud that can cause the inner wing to rust through at this point.
While in this area check the
front tie rod mounting plates for cracks around the mounting bolt holes
at the front edge and at the point the tie rod bolts through as this also
often cracks - these are easily repaired but are important safety wise
as they take a lot of stress under acceleration and braking. The rest
of the body rusts in the same areas that most 30 year old cars do, mostly
cosmetic like around headlamps, door bottoms and rear wheel arches. Bear
in mind though that new panels are getting scarce and expensive so repairs
will often involve making your own repair sections.
On the mechanical side 1800 owners
will tell you the sixes are clapped out by 60,000 miles which isn't true
however they don't tolerate neglect like the 1800 and can become oil burners
if they haven't had regular oil changes with a quality oil. This was often
skimped on because the early 72-73 manual cars require a whopping 19 pints
to refill so get the engine well warmed up and look for blue smoke on
acceleration and overun, or once hot hold the revs up at about 2500 up
for about 30 seconds and watch for blue smoke, then switch the engine
off for ten minutes and restart it. A small puff of smoke is OK but any
more indicates worn valve stem oil seals or valve guides.
Also check that the thermostatic
cooling fan cuts in before the engine starts to rise above normal. Some
cars have been fitted with an overide switch on the dash as the thermostatic
switch is notoriously unreliable this is a worthwhile modification since
cars that have been regularily run hot soon become oil burners or rumbly
around the bottom end. Higher mileage engines can become tappetty a time
consuming job as the clearances are adjusted by shims but adjustment is
only required after about 50,000 + miles - timing chains can also become
noisy but again only after high mileages normally 80 - 90,000+.
On manual cars check for clutch
judder as this indicates the rear crankshaft oil seal is leaking this
can be confirmed by traces of oil dripping from the hole at the base of
the clutch housing clutch replacement is straight forward as unlike the
1800 it can be carried out with the engine in the car however a special
tool is required to change the oil seal. Reliably - friendly garages may
lend this to you for a small fee.
Driveshafts are durable as they
don't have rubber couplings like the 1800 but a 2nd inboard CV type joint
and on manual cars the gear selection is the rod type so no hydraulicing
gear cables to worry about, - the internals of the gearbox are standard
1800 and virtually bomb proof. Its worth checking the power steering if
fitted for leaks or excessive noise from the pump and the driver's side
rack mounting clamp as these have been known to break. I think this covers
most maladies peculiar to the six. The stories of crank thrust washers
dropping out and the idler gear tab washer failing really only applied
to early cars most of which have been modified years ago.
Don't be put off by this long
list of checks it covers the worst areas on the worst cars. Personally,
body condition is most important, mechanicals second and don't be too
put off by scruffy trim if the rest is good since it was of very poor
BL quality and did not wear well so is not often found in perfect condition.Many
six owners have replaced it with the earlier Wolseley 1885 II style which
was much more durable than the later cloth trim.
Good luck on Sunday
Joe
Thanks for that great list Joe.
I reckon body condition is more important too.
------------------------------- From: "David Bennett" dbennett@netspeed.com.au
Subject: Refurbishing bonnet badges
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002
I have restored a couple of Mini
K/Matic bonnet badges but it is a very time consuming exercise. I had
to meticulously scrape all the old dried paint from the grooves from the
inside of the plastic disc then use a liner brush with only 6 or so hairs
to get a very fine line then very, very carefully fill in the grooves
in the appropriate colours.
I have found Jo-Sonja craft paints
excellent to use (I also paint Aussie folk art on bits and pieces when
I'm not working on BMC cars so I've had a bit of a head start with fine
painting).
Once the colours have been filled
in, I applied silver/chrome paint from the inside to give that chrome
look round the circumference, then covered everything in clear lacquer
to protect everything.
I remember one took me a good
6 to 8 hours on my Mini K, but it won a Best Original so I must have done
something right.
The only requirement is that
the external clear plastic must be in reasonable nick. If it is badly
cracked and opaque it cannot be restored.
Minor scratches on plastic including
indicator lenses can be polished out with a creamy mixture of toothpaste.
I kid you not it does work, try it some time.
Dave
I'm sure you have the patience
of Job. Thanks for that helpful tip Dave.
-------------------------------
From: Eriks eriks@froggy.com.au
Subject: Austin Workshop Manuals for service
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002
As it happens I just recently
spend some time trying to track down a manual for my new project, an Austin
A30. I think it is the same manual you are referring to, the Austin A30
Seven Service Manual. I spent a bit of time looking through second hand
bookshops, specialist Austin Parts suppliers and several major swap meets.
I eventually found a copy at
a swap meet for $10.
This manual is very hard
to come across. I don't think the person selling it realised this. I would
have been prepared to pay more.
The Morris 1100 manual
is far more common and you can regularly pick them up starting at $5.
A general observation
is that most second hand workshop manuals sell between $5 to $40, with
the genuine Austin/BMC being slightly dearer.
The prices I mention are in Australian
dollars.
Cheers,
Eriks.
Swap Meets are the way to go,
eh Eriks?
------------------------------- From: Patrick Farrell
Subject: 1970
Austin 1800 Alternator
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002
All time alternator fix is to
go to the wreckers get yourself an alternator from a Mitsubishi Magna,
bolts straight on. Has inbuilt regulator, 55 amp, just connect wires same
as 1800, although it only uses two wires plug is the same.
I use an 85 amp version on my
rally car, no problems so far (10 years).
Keeps 'em charging Patrick.
------------------------------- From: Joe
Subject: Fitting Power Steering
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002
Retro fitting power steering
is not difficult provided you have all the bits from donor car they are:
Power Rack
Pump assembly with pivot bolt
and spacer off engine
Hoses and clips
Steering Column
Fitting is basically a direct
replacement of the above items with the PAS ones. 3 points to watch: the
rack bolts on to captive "nuts" in the box section on one of these (o/s
I think) you will need to move the captive nut to the alternative mounting
point.
The mounting clamp on the driver's
side of rack is prone to breaking, check it for cracks before fitting.
The bolts that clamp the steering
column to the dash bottom rail are shear bolts that is the heads shear
off once the correct torque is reached these can be a pain to remove if
the heads are gone, tapping them round with a punch or small chisel seems
to work. The same bolts are used for the column lock. Personally I would
use the lock from the PAS column to save all the bother.
:
Bad luck with the thrust washers
but it explains the lack of oil pressure I assume yours are just worn
not fallen out which wrecks the gearbox - which is what happened on early
cars before modification. Worn thrust washers would suggest lack of oil
changes or very high mileage. I started getting end float on the crank
at 275,000+ miles. Make sure your engine builder checks the end float
on the primary gear on re-assembly or you could have oil leaks on the
clutch and judder back again.
Cheers Joe
Watch out for those 'captive
nuts' Joe - they seem to be everywhere!!!
------------------------------- From: Larry Lebel Leanne_Lebel@shaw.ca
Subject: North
American 1800's
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002
I am also a Landcrab owner in
North Vancouver. Mine is a '67 which I am currently trying to get mobile
again after it sat idle 23 years. It has several issues, the latest of
which is a lot of smoke emanating from the generator when I turn the key
on.
It didn't do this when I bought
it, the generator and/or the voltage regulator are the usual suspects.
The previous owner did a lot of rewiring which I am slowly trying to figure
out and make right. He wired in an ammeter, a warning light that isn't
connected to anything, and auxilliary switch with a wire to the trunk
for some unknown component and he put a switch on the fuel pump which
bypassed the fusebox. No wonder there's a short in the generator. I am
also working on the brakes and I am awaiting a rebuild kit for the servo.
There is at least one other 1800
in the area that I saw the other day on Main Street in North Van
presumably heading for the 2nd
Narrows southbound. It was a very nice looking biege one. Mine is a very
ratty looking black one. Ruth Burgess at All British Cars has been quite
helpful with parts. She even came up with a brand new old stock windshield
wiper the other day when I was looking for a new drive gear. The drive
gears are like gold because they seem to be unique to the 1800.
You wouldn't happen to have some
MkI seats, would you? The seats I have are from a MkII model and the mounting
rails are narrower than MKI's. I jury rigged mounting them by putting
in some angle iron cross members but I would prefer the right ones. Don't
ask how I ended up with the wrong seats.
Bye for now.
How DID you end up with the wrong
seats??
Maybe that warning light was
meant to warn you about getting the wrong seats....
-------------------------------
From: GAntonijevic@Hornsby.nsw.gov.au
Subject: 1800
engine removal
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002
George Antonijevic A.M.S.I.A.
Cartographer
Hornsby Shire Council
Mailto:gantonijevic@hornsby.nsw.gov.au
Having had six 1800's over a
15 year period, two of which were utes, I feel qualified to share a useful
tip when removing and replacing the powerplant. The very first time I
pulled the motor out through the top, I vowed I would never do it that
way again!
Support the top suspension arms
with an old disk pad wedged between the bottom bump stop and the top arm,
then take off the brake calipers without disconnecting the brake hose.
Remove the bottom ball joint nuts and lower the bottom suspension arms.
Pull the hubs hanging from the top arms out so that the axles withdraw
from the diff. Remove the two triangular plates at the bottom front of
the engine bay, rotate the radius arms outward. Undo the gearshift mechanism
from the car, speedo cable and wiring harness. Autoshift cable at the
top firewall.
Lower the car using either two
1800 jacks onto two 2 x 2 blocks of softwood. Undo all engine mounts where
they connect to the body, exhaust clamp, fuel line at the inlet side of
the pump, remove the carburettor, leave the radiator attached to the engine.
raise the car with a hoist or whatever until the engine clears the underside
of the front of the car. Then either push the car back or pull the engine
out from under it.
You can work on the powerplant
easily. Replacement is a reversal of the above. Engine mounts can be lined
up with a Phillips screwdriver. When the bolts are in, you can raise the
car back to normal height and refit all the bits hanging off.
I have removed and replaced the
clutch in 2 hours (I was young and fit then).
My preference is the automatic
which I found was better for the engine (no shared oil). The torque converter
gave me low ratio FWD 2:1 in tough bush conditions and faster changes
on acceleration. Automatic engineers can rebuild the Borg Warner type
35 with their eyes shut for $500 if you give it to them on the bench.
That's easy using the above method.
I had a bored out 1950cc 1800
engine which went through 4 bodies (hence the experience in engine fitting)
and it kept up with Honda Accords off the mark and achieved 108mph on
the Cooma road in 1976 (my ribbon speedo had 'HELP' written at the far
left hand side) all with a standard carbie. The utes were terrific carriers
and left everything behind on the Wombeyan Caves Road.
Great car
Good luck
I wonder how much it would cost
if those Automatic engineers they kept their eyes open, eh George?
------------------------------- From: "David Bennett" dbennett@netspeed.com.au
Subject: Cover
Plates
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002
Look for raised sections on all
cover plates when changing gaskets as gasket goo and new gaskets alone
will not compensate for the extra space taken up by the raised sections.
The problem is normally caused
by overtightening, which creates the raised areas surrounding each hole
in the first place. Appropriately sized pieces of wood and small tack
hammers will usually solve the problem.
A quick run around the plate
edge with your fingers will identify raised areas.
Dave Bennett
Thanks for that tip Dave, I'm
sure we've all been down that track before.
------------------------------- From: Ken Green kengreen@landcrab2.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Brake
calipers for competition use
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002
Hi Ian
I have the 1800S 3 pot calipers
on my car and they are a great improvement over the two pot.
You can find them on the 1800S
(never imported into Oz) the 2200 and some Jaguar and Rover models. You
should really use the 1800S discs but they will just fit on the PBR disc
(the "S" had larger 246mm dia discs) If you run 13" wheels they
will jam on the steel wheel but not on Minilites or you can fit the spacers
and longer studs off an Oz Mk1 1/2 car.
If you want me to look for a
set in the UK for you contact me directly.
Ken Green
1800 Rally car register
That should help our competitive
Austins, Ken. (Actually I'm a two pot screamer!!!!)
-------------------------------
From: Ken Green kengreen@landcrab2.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Quick
Rack steering
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002
There were two standard steering
racks for the 1800. The later MkI and MkII rack had fewer turns lock to
lock. Contrary to popular belief, both the Australian and UK cars used
the same racks.
The Works 1800 used a very special
one off - high ratio rack for the London/Sydney cars. The chances of getting
one are very close to zero unless you were lucky enough to find one made
as spares for the rally car. I think that someone in Australia had a couple
made at great expense in the 1970's, but these are long gone.
If you live in the UK and have
a early MkI car then you could fit a MkII rack. This will sharpen up the
steering. If you have an Oz car or a late UK car there isn't much you
can do without remanufacturing the parts.
Ken
More good info there Ken.
------------------------------- From: Ian ian@powewrline.com.au
Subject: Gear
Change Problems
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002
I am very familiar with this
problem as I had it on my MkII and with both MkI's and with my rally car.
The solution is to groove the sections at the gear box end or drill out
the seal at the gear box end so that the oil moves freely. The other thing
that tends to happen is that the cable frays, yep it frays and makes shifting
difficult, did not believe it but it did happen.
If he is still around, a gentleman
called Hans Peterson produced an up graded and modified cable set up which
was exchanged. I fitted this to my rally car and I have never had a problem,.I
believed he used Kimberly cables, a heavier cable cover and did the grooving
trick.
I found it the best shift for
my 1800's and well worth fitting. I think he still uses the HP name and
is out Boronia way in Victoria Australia.
Thanks Ian, there's nothing worse
than fraying ends and a lack of grooving is there?
-------------------------------
From: RobertA@shannonsinsurance.com
Subject: 1800
mags
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002
I have a set of 15 inch Performance
Superlites, on my Austin 1800 MkI and they make the car. You can get them
at any tyre place, they take about two weeks to make. I think they cost
about $180 a rim, plus of course the tyres. They look like minilites that
were fitted to Minis.
They arent cheap of course, but
they make the car. I can email you a picture of my car with the rims on
if you want, to see what they look like.
Hope this helps,
Rob.
I'm sure a pic of the car minus
the rims would look a bit silly eh? Send us the whole pic Rob.
------------------------------- From: Andrew Childs ajchilds100@hotmail.com
Subject: Austin 3 Litres
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002
I wonder if anyone could give
me an indication as to how many Austin 3 Litres are left in Australia
or New Zealand?
I am currently restoring three
of them in the UK, where they are now quite a rare car. It is believed
around 100-150 or so are known to exist (a large percentage of these require
restoration, and the actual " on the road figure" is much smaller than
this).
One of the problems is that the
club which caters for them here (Austin 3 Litre owners club), is pretty
much non existent. There is no annual show or anything like that, and
it really is a great shame that such a good car has so little recognition.
I have one of each variety, an auto, a manual and a very rare manual overdrive.
It would be much appreciated if anyone has any news of them down under.
I also have a great respect for
the 1800/200 Landcrabs and have a Wolseley 18/85 and a Six.
Regards
Andy Childs
I'm sure if anyone knows Andy,
they will surely let you know. Rev up that 3 Litre Owners
Club.
------------------------------- From: Patrick Farrell
Subject: Austin 3 Litres
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002
There are at least two in the
OZ Landcrab club, one in Western Australia and one in Victoria, not sure
of condition of either.
These cars were not imported
into Australia, there are possibly more in New Zealand.
Patrick
Well, that's two of them accounted
for.
-------------------------------
From: "Ian Comport" ian@powerline.com.au
Subject: Austin 1800 Magazines
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002
I have been keenly following
your great web site and actively submitting to the bulletin board.
I note in your magazine listing
that an early 1990's magazine called Race and Rally or Road and Rally
with an historic theme was missed. I have a copy at home and it features
Hopkirks L-S car with photos and a write up. It may have been called Historic
(and or Classic) Race and Rally.
The front cover featured the
car and there were a couple of pages inside. It was about 1992 -1994.
Just thought it would be of interest
if you would like I will get the exact details just emailing as it came
to mind.
Anyway great site.
Ian Comport
*********************
My reply sent to Ian on Friday
31st May 2002
G'day Ian,
Thanks for your kind comments
and your offer of listing the magazines you speak of. I would be interested
with the exact details and if you can send any pics they would be greatly
appreciated.
I have noticed you are an active
participant on the Bulletin Board and enjoy seeing the assistance and
contacts that are established by Landcrab enthusiasts from all around
the world.
The latest being the folk in
Canada finally 'finding' each other. That's the reason why I created this
site in the first place.
Regards,
John Roach - Webmaster.
-------------------------------
From: "Eriks Skinkis" eriks@froggy.com.au
Subject: Uni
Joints
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002
There were two brands of aftermarket
needle roller uni-joints produced to replace the solid rubber uni-joints
used on the manual models.
The earlier type consisted of
an inner steel yoke with needle rollers encased in a black solid rubber
outer. I have had different comments that these were manufactured by either
Hardy Spicer or by Repco. The general consensus seems to be that these
were not very reliable.
There is also a later type that
was produced by Quinton Hazell, which also have the inner steel yoke and
needle rollers, however these have a hard white nylon outer casing. These
Quinton Hazell units can sometimes be found at swap meets and seem to
sell between $45 to $75 (AU) per unit.
There is divided opinion on the
reliability of these units, some people suggest they are only useful as
fishing sinkers, while others swear by them.
I have also been told of a couple
of factors that can severely affect new old parts, that is 30 year old
car parts that are still brand new. 30 year old rubber components may
look brand new when initially removed from their packaging, and you might
even expect to get a 20 year service life from them because these are
original parts that originally gave you 20 trouble free years. However
once in place in the car and exposed to heat and oil and fumes, the rubber
can start to break down rapidly and you can find the 30 years of time
catches up and the part perishes in as little as 6 months!
Parts that were packed with grease,
such as the above uni-joints, even though new, should be stripped down,
cleaned and re-packed with new grease.
More than likely that after sitting
on the stock shelf for 30 years, the grease would have broken down, either
hardened, or separated back into its oily components. Even if it looks
OK, why take the chance of destroying that hard to find original new part
just for the sake of replacing a little bit of grease?
Cheers,
Eriks.
Thanks Eriks, even though we
think we're getting a bargain, we still have to be careful.
 Quinton Hazell Universal Joint Photo courtesy Eriks Skinkis
-------------------------------
|
|
|
OILS aint OILS
From: Peter Laursen pfl@mail.net4you.dk
Subject: Oil
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002
If your engine is not too worn
I should recommend high viscosity index synthetic oil i.e. a 5W-50
oil. Apart from being an oil of very high quality it will reduce the oil
consumption considerably. I have used this type of oil for some time,
and have doubled the oil exchange interval. The oil is rather expensive,
but the doubling of the interval in connection with the low oil consumption
results in cost of oil being about the same or even a little lower than
ordinary engine oil.
Happy landcrabbing
Peter
I think you opened up a CAN of
worms with this one Peter. Read on.....
-------------------------------
From: Ken Green kengreen@landcrab2.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Oil
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002
I dont know if you can get it
in Oz but I have always used Duckhams Q 20-50 in my 1800 In the
UK Duckhams have just re-released the original spec for older cars in
the original yellow One Gallon (well 4.5 litres to keep the EEC happy!)
cans.
The oil was originally formulated
for BMC Transverse engines where the oil shares the sum with the gearbox.
One other thing Quinton Hazell
do the auto drive shaft Hardy Spicer joints part N0 QL 16103 they are
the same as a Landrover series 2
Ken
-------------------------------
From: Eriks eriks@froggy.com.au
Subject: Oil
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002
A couple of years ago the Sprite
Car Club of Australia held a technical morning at an engine rebuilding
company in the western suburbs of Sydney. They had an engine dyno on the
premises, that is the engine is hooked in directly to the dyno, and not
via a rolling road, so the readings are more accurate (thats what the
proprietor told us).
The proprietor mentioned that
he had tested numerous brands of motor oils in an engine on his dyno,
and pushed the engine hard to the point where the readings indicated the
oils started to break down.
The oil that performed the best
came as a total surprise not only to him, but also to our group
when he told us. Are you ready
for it.....
It was a brand sold by K-Mart,
K-Mac 20W-50 Motor Oil.
Cheers,
Eriks.
Really? Well shut my mouth!!!!
-------------------------------
From: Maarten Kempen mkempen@interestate.nl
Subject: Oil
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002
Since the last 4 years I use
Castrol RS (5w 60) on my Austin 2200, where lots of other brands lose
oil pressure at high temperatures this one holds its pressure perfectly.
Before this oil I used Pennzoil (5w 50) and for me this was the next best
one.
I also double my intervals and
consumption is less.
Maarten
-------------------------------
From: Leone leoneedwards@bigpond.com
Subject: Is
my 1800 worth holding on to?
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002
I have a 1968 Austin 1800 MkII
in pretty good condition, but it's getting more and more difficult to
get the parts. A friend has offered to buy me a newer car, but I really
love my Austin.
I'm not very mechanically minded
- do I need to be to own an Austin, or are there sympathetic mechanics
about? I'm the bane of my very patient mechanic's life at the moment.
My landcrab needs a paint job
also - people tell me it costs about $2,500 for something decent. It also
needs a tiny bit of rust treatment, but is pretty good in that respect.
Also needs door seals, etc. but the upholstery is pretty good (only 1
small tear that was my fault - any way of repairing that before it gets
bigger?) Help - what to do? I love my car.
Who wants to answer her?
Leone, you're seriously thinking
of getting rid of a fabulous Classic Car?
Answer: Get a mechanic who cares....
I'm having my Mk I resprayed
now, including minor dent and rust repairs, for $2,500 (Little Aussie
Bleeders) and that's a great price.
Some resprayers ask from around $4,000 - ask someone
here for advice.
-------------------------------
From: Bill Stevenson: billstevenson@bigpond.com.au
Subject: Is
my 1800 worth holding on to?
Date: Wed. June 19 2002
Hi Leone, anyone can get a newer
car, not everyone can have the courage of their convictions. If you love
your car, you'll fix it up. If you don't fix it, it will continue to deteriorate
until it's not worth fixing. You can get parts here. $2,500 for a paint
job is cheap. You decide!
-------------------------------
From: Paul Fryer: p.fryer@ntlworld.com
Subject: Is
my 1800 worth holding on to?
Date: Wed. June 20 2002
Leone-
New cars are dull. Not that long
ago you could line up a SAAB, a BMW, a Merc and a Bentley and they all
had individual character in terms of their styling. These days if you
took the badges off you'd be hard pressed to tell them apart. They are
all designed using the same computer programmes. Is this progress? Probably.
Personally I'd rather have an
old car that doesn't work than a new one that does, but that's me. If
you want you can have your cake and eat it; i.e. an old car that goes
and looks good. I am in the UK but there are many oz landcrabbers who
I'm sure would be very helpful with advice and contacts etc. As far as
your mechanic goes, if he's complaining about you giving him work maybe
you need a new mechanic. Or he needs a change of career. Or both.
All lancrabs are straightforward
vehicles which any good mechanic can fix without the aid of thousands
of pounds worth of computer diagnostic gear, and once they're working
right they are a joy. Keep the crab and dare to be different.
regards
Fryer.
-------------------------------
From: Ewen
Subject: Is
my 1800 worth holding on to?
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002
Hi Leone
What town/state are you in?
I am sure that some of us will
be able to recommend a good mechanic who specialises in Austins.
Keep your eyes on this board
for people dismantling 1800 for parts you need, or put up a request. I
am sure that someone will be able to help you out.
Drive in style for the rest of
your life.
-------------------------------
From: Ian ian@powerline.com.au
Subject: Is
my 1800 worth holding on to?
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002
Simply put the Austin 1800 is
a car to keep. It is one of the strongest, safest and reliable cars on
the road. Many mechanics refuse to work on them because the cars are too
simple and they cannot think outside computers, programs and manuals.
Any mechanic worth a pinch of salt can tune, maintain and fix them.
If you live in Melbourne I can
name 4 capable and reasonably priced mechs who can service and maintain
them. Parts are not an issue because there are still parts available.
New rubber seals are available too. A $2,500 paint job would be a top
notch job if you only have a little rust. Find yourself a good mechanic
and keep the car, as in many ways it is far superior than the tinny recycled
crap you see on the road.
Also, in an accident, the modern
car will be like a cushion for your Austin. Keep the car, get a good mech
and enjoy.
Great advice fellows.
-------------------------------
From: Tim timmelia@aol.com
Subject: 1800
Chassis No. 117
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002
I have recently purchased an
Austin 1800 with the chassis No. 117.
Does this make it the earliest
surviving example?
I bought the car from a gentleman
who worked at the Austin Experimental Department at Longbridge, he bought
the car off the Department. I was told it was one of the cars used at
the press launch in 1964.
It has the Reg No 531 NOF a Birmingham
number.
Over to you on this one Ken.
You're a Birmingham boy....
------------------------------- From: Ken Green kengreen@landcrab2.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Diff
Ratios
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002
This is the information I have
on diff ratios.
Australian
Manual
MkI and MkII Saloon and some
utes 4.187 to 1 = 16.8 mph/1000 rpm.
Look for 16/67 stamped on the
gearbox casing
Mk1 Ute 4.75
to 1 = 15.7 mph/1000 rpm
Look for 16/76 on casing.
Auto
Mk I-&-II Ute and Saloon
3.83 to 1 gives 17.8 mph/ 1000 rpm
All the above on 165x14 tyres.
Uk Production
Manual
MkI Saloon 4.175 to 1
MkII Saloon 3.88 to 1 gives 18.1
mph /1000 rpm
Princess 3.72 to 1
Automatic
Saloon 3.83 to 1 = 17.8 mph /
1000 rpm
Princess 3.83 to 1
All on 165 x 14 tyres.
You must remember that Mk I cars
used 175x13 Mk II cars used 165x14 and the utes used 6.50x14 (175x14)
tyres.
Both the Auto ute, Saloon and
the Princess used the same gearbox ratios. The difference in mph / 1000
rpm are caused by the larger diameter tyres quoted for the ute.
The only way you can reduce the
rpm on an auto is to fit larger tyres 175x14 will fit OK.
Hope this helps
Ken
-------------------------------
From: Rob robert_alyari@shannonsinsurance.com
Subject: Door
locks
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002
Locks on Austin 1800's are the
same as most BMC/Leyland stuff of the era. Vehicles like MGB, Austin-Healey,
Jaguar, Morris 1100's etc. all use the same Union brand locks. Getting
a brand new set, from say an MGB parts supplier wouldn't be a problem
I can't imagine.
They are very easy to change,
you just need small hands!!
Hope this helps,
Rob.
------------------------------- From: Patrick Farrell
Subject: Steering Wheel
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002
AUTOSPORT in Melbourne have 15"
Griplite steering wheels in stock, they will fit if you use the SAAS boss.
As a matter of interest the SAAS
boss for the Mini will also fit the 1800.
Patrick
-------------------------------
From: Ken Green kengreen@landcrab2.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Suspension mods.
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002
Aeon was the trade name for a
big rubber bump stop/spring assister that were/are still made in
England. They were available for most cars at one time and were fitted
between the frame and axle to give extra help with the springing when
the car was laden like towing a caravan .
They were also used by the BMC
Works teams on the Mini and 1800 as H/D bump stops and were listed in
the Special Tuning catalogue both in the UK and Oz.
They are useful in keeping the
back of a car off the ground when you have a full load in the boot or
are towing.
They were a standard fitment
to all the rally cars and were vital on a hydrolastic mini to stop the
front to rear pitching on acceleration.
Ken
-------------------------------
From: Larry Lebel LeanneLebel@shaw.ca
Subject: Distributors
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002
Another option is to install
a Pertronix IGNITOR electronic ignition in the existing dizzy. These are
also sold by Aldon at a much inflated markup. These are small electronic
modules that fit under the cap and use a Hall Effect sensor that is activated
by a collar with 4 magnets that fits over the cam lobes.
Installation takes less time
than to change and adjust a set of points. This one small item obviates
all the machining etc. that is required by Marcel's method.
There are no longer any points
to put wear and tear on the dizzy and you never have to adjust the points
again. They are priced in Vancouver at CDN$110.
They are available for positve
ground eletrical systems at a higher? cost but really the best way is
to 'bite the bullet' and change to negative ground. I put one on my Mini
and it ran better immediately and I got a 5% increase in HP as measured
on a dyno.
These things are the best thing
since sliced bread... every British car should have one. The model number
for the 25D dizzy is LU142a.
Larry
------------------------------- From: Patrick Farrell
Subject: Distributors
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002
The Landcrab Owners Club Aust.
has a changeover system on vacuum advance units. The cost to members is
$A40.
The club can also supply Hitachi
distrbutors (breakerless) for $A36 changeover or $A85 without a changeover
distributor. Once again this is a members only price.
If you are not a member the cost
is $A72 for the vacuum advance unit and $A68 changeover or $A117 without
a changeover, for the distributor.
Patrick
-------------------------------
From: "Allan J Prestwood"
al_prestwood@bigpond.com
To: austin1800@engineer.com
Subject: Tips
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002
Hi
Many years ago I ran crabs. A
couple of things I learned --
1. When installing second-hand
suspension units, I found that when the local dealer topped up the fluid,
he spragged the unit (as per manual). The unit lasted no time.
Since then, I used to gently
pump up the suspension using a stirrup pump and a jack under the sill.
It worked a treat and I got good service from the units.
( I once met a real crab freak
- 1/2 acre of crabs - who used a master cylinder mouted on a base with
a large reservoir instead of using a stirrup pump).
I don't know whether Penrite
still lists suspension fluid, but I think I may still have a 5 litre bottle
left.
2. I found that the upper control
arm ball joint (the one with the large dia. fine thread ) would sometimes
work loose. It turned out that the tab washer, because of its large diameter
could go out of shape when tightened and not effectively lock the thread.
I used to use Loctite as a precaution.
3. Priming the oil after a rebuild
could take an agonisingly long time. I got around this by blocking off
the PCV valve and putting moderate air pressure in the breather with a
blow gun, whilst turning over the motor (without spark plugs).
4. I improved cold weather starting
by using a ballast and 8V coil. I shorted the ballast on starting using
a relay actuated by the starting circuit.
I seem to recall that crab rear
suspension units were the same as 1100 fronts - not 100% sure -15 years
is a long time for me.
Your website is great
Regards
Allan Prestwood
Thanks for those tips Allan.
There are probably a few enthusiasts out there who would love to try these
tips out.
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